The passenger door slams, the driver revs the engine and we leave the little airstrip in our wake. The tiny, single-propeller seaplane that brought us here is doing an about turn in preparation for the journey back across the Arabian Gulf. And it won’t be back anytime soon. I’m well and truly in the care of the Sharjah Police. “I think you’ll find your quarters pretty comfortable,” says the captain, Hamid, a gruff bear of a man as he ushers me into a low-rise building. I’ve done nothing untoward. Rather, I’m here to investigate one of Sharjah’s hitherto unsung natural attractions.